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Dining And Drinking

Culturally, Durban is a stew of different influences, which is reflected in the cuisine to be found here. A large factor in the culinary make-up of this city is its position on the coast and Indian Ocean, hence Durban is best known for its Indian curries and for fresh seafood. Of course there are African influences, with restaurants like Crocokraal, but the heavy spices of India, introduced to the area by the sugar-cane workers, back in the nineteenth century have swallowed these. There are also touches of British colonial, the Royal Hotel is a good example, and as you would expect of a large port city, many other examples of world cuisine. There are a few good bars of note, but generally drinking is confined to Irish pub chains, hotel bars and clubs around the Golden Mile area.

Indian

Extraordinary selections of spices are available for purchase in the Indian Quarter if you are self-catering and wish to enter the culinary spirit of the city. For restaurants there is the Ulundi at the Royal Hotel, but for something completely genuine try the Amaravathi Palki in Berea, the Pakistani Restaurant in the city centre or The Gulzar in Greyville. Indian food and live Indian music can be found at the Jewel of India at the Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza. Perhaps the most lively is the Indian restaurant-cum-bar, the Tandoor Palace on the beachfront.

Seafood

Seafood from the Indian Ocean, such as langoustines or prawns from Mozambique, are a local treat. The Famous Fish Company offers some of the best seafood cuisine (as the name suggests) at the mouth of the harbor is a unique setting. For a more unusual twist go to Stairway in Durban North, which provides Halal ‘surf and turf’. An ironically named and popular seafood restaurant is Langoustine by the Sea also in Durban North, which has a theatre and is set in the Japanese Garden, a very romantic location.

European

For something unusual and creative go to Christina's in the city centre, the set-menu is an eclectic mix of haute-cuisine. The food experience will be unique, the standard is generally high and the price reasonable. Another interesting place, but more fully priced, is the Colony in the Oceanic Building, just behind the Golden Mile. If you like the idea of a revolving restaurant go to the Roma for Italian food, at the top of Ross House (32nd floor) on Victoria Embankment; the restaurant overlooks the harbor.

There are some excellent Portuguese restaurants in the city, like The Victoria Bar and Restaurant down at the harbour, and unpretentious eatery serving seafood with Portuguese flair. For more traditional servings, go to Coimbra’s in Umbilo. Probably the best all round example, is Vasco’s named after the Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, it serves the most famous dishes made from traditional recipes.


At the higher end of the price scale, bearing in mind meals in South Africa are invariably cheaper compared to Europe and the States, there are some classy restaurants. In the city centre, La Dolce Vita is a well-known Italian Restaurant and St. Geran offers French food with a touch of spice.

Of special note is the Royal Hotel. A fine example of British colonial architecture, it houses three superb eateries. The Royal Coffee Shoppe is a step back to a bygone era: come here for tea and cakes to the sound of piano tinkling. In addition the hotel has various grand restaurants, of which The Royal Grill is probably the most elegant dining experience to be had in the city silver service and a harpist accompany the tinkling sound of the piano. The food is nouvelle French and the standard is generally very high. Indian cuisine, set in the colonial atmosphere of the hotel, is served in the 'Ulundi' restaurant. The waiters wear turbans and the food is prepared with the European palette in mind.

Family Dining

Families will find that there are numerous chain eateries in the shopping centres, which cater well and inexpensively for family meals. Among these are the Spur and Something Fishy. For take-away meals the best of the chains is Nandos for chicken and Steers for burgers. For something more individual, go to Spaghetti Action on the beachfront, or the Copper Rail Kitchen for simple European fair.

Bars

The Golden Mile beachfront has numerous hotels, bars and pubs. Of the latter variety Joe Kools is well known a beachfront bar and restaurant with pool tables, a popular surfer hangout. A more mature crowd gather at Cattleman two doors further along. Down in the docks on Durban Point is Victoria Bar, which gathers an eclectic crowd of regulars. A word of caution is needed here as the Beachfront area becomes a little more sleazy late at night, and is more popular with the hardened drinkers.

More sophisticated bars are found within the hotels, the most refined of which being at the Royal Hotel and Rick's Cafe, opposite the City Hall. In the suburb of Berea there is Beanbag Bohemia–a cafe downstairs and a cigar bar upstairs. The Monkey Bar is another cigar bar and is in the Windermere area.
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