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42°F / 5°C
(Partly Cloudy. Nippy.)
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Ever since a swineherd discovered that his pigs not only enjoyed rolling in the hot mud here but that it was actually beneficial, Bath has been the place to wallow. And it still is.
The Romans used it for R&R, although in their case it could have been called R&R&R--Rest, Relaxation and Religion. In its Georgian reincarnation the town changed the third R from Religion to Revelry. Gambling and louche behaviour are a little harder to find nowadays as the city fathers struggle to maintain the upper-class image but, let's face it, this city's raison d'être is tourism and easy living. In many ways it's becoming a cross between those Spanish villages where there's a festival every week for whatever reason they can think of, and Prague, where every door leads to music of one form or another.
Music
Whatever your taste - Classical, Jazz, Blues, Punk Rock or Funk - it'll be catered to here, and often for free. Bath has a surprising number of classical music groups and orchestras, and not a week passes without several possible performances. The biggest festival in town is the Bath International Music Festival, usually running from the last week in May to the first in June. This is truly an international festival and runs concurrently with the Jazz Festival and the Fringe Festival, so it's an eclectic mixture. Unmissable though, is the first night, which kicks off festivities with a free modern music concert in Victoria Park, just below the Royal Crescent. In the evening, street lighting from the Circus to the Royal Crescent is normally turned off and the windows candle lit, while the climax comes with a stunning firework display over the Crescent. Bath's biggest party night, and always memorable.
Theatre and Cinema
For theatre buffs, no trip to Bath would be complete without a visit to the Theatre Royal. As it was built in 1805 and has recently been refurbished, this Georgian gem also qualifies as one of the sights of Bath, but the fare on offer stands on its own merit. The program changes weekly, with one-off performances on Sunday by a wide variety of performers, but the play is the thing here and they are top class. The National Theatre, the Royal Shakespeare Company and (usually once each year) the Royal Ballet, are regular visitors and many plays close their pre-West End national tours here. If they don't go down well in Bath they might not make it to London. Equally there are many post West End touring plays as well. If this sounds pricey don't forget that fifty seats are sold at midday for £5 and if you call in just before the evening performance, cut price seats and returns are normally for sale at half price. If a performance is sold out then standing only tickets are available (just turn up, they can't be reserved) for only £3. Leaning against the rail is quite comfortable, there's a great view, and you'll be first to the bar in the interval.
Behind the Theatre Royal, but in the same building, is the intimate Ustinov Studio where more avant garde material is performed and there's also the amateur-run Rondo Theatre at Larkhall. The Rondo program is not quite so regular but the standard is high and the bar is next to the raked seating area so you can drink as you watch.
Bath still doesn't have a vast multi-screen cinema, just the three small cinemas: the ABC in Westgate Street, Robins next to the Theatre Royal, and the Little Theatre by the Cross and Hot Baths. The 'Little' is worth a mention. Built in 1935, it was used for drama courses as well as cinema, and the owners also owned the renowned Everyman in London. It is the oldest private cinema in the country still in the hands of the original family, a fact which allows the slightly more fringe and foreign films to be shown. And there's a front of house manager who is not only over the age of nineteen, but he doesn't chew gum either and is quite happy to discuss the movies on offer with a modicum of insight. And it's comfortable, with big seats and the latest sound system.
Sport
To many people, 'sport' in Bath means only one thing: rugby. In the amateur days, Bath was the undisputed champion of the country, but professionalism arrived after 1996, and since then things aren't quite what they used to be. Nevertheless, Rugby rules and the Rec (Recreation Ground, next to the river opposite Parade Gardens) is the most picturesque setting for any stadium in the country, if not the world. Entry prices may not be cheap (£15 - £25) but it's free entry for second team games and the overlooking clubhouse bar is open to all, so a pleasant evening can be had for the price of a pint. While the rugby season runs from September to May, the other crowd-pulling sport in Bath, Horse racing at Lansdown, handily fills in by having a May to September season. All the top jockeys and trainers come to this scenic track and entry prices are lower, with children under 16 admitted free. Before some die-hard football fan screams foul, I'd better mention Bath City Football at Twerton. Famous for losing rather than winning at one time, they currently seem to be heading for promotion out of the Doc Martens league. Although their ground holds 8000 (the sort of crowd rugby and racing generally attract) 800 would be considered a crush nowadays.
Otherwise
Buskers abound on the streets around the Abbey and many are worth watching. At night the Club scene comes to life with Cadillac's in Walcot Street being the most active. The various Walks, Ghost, Comedy, etc. can be fun, but there's no better value than the free Mayor's Walk starting from outside the Pump Room twice daily.
...And there's some Roman and Georgian stuff, but you've probably overdosed on that already.
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