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75°F / 24°C
(Passing Clouds. Mild.)
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Although the Out Islands are primarily known as a haven for naturalists and sports enthusiasts, a day trip to Hope Town on Elbow Cay or Harbour Island in northern Eleuthera can be highly enjoyable and foster great appreciation of the Bahamian way of life and the British influence upon it. Many of the churches, colonial homes, and other structures, manmade and natural, have withstood the dual tests of time and the elements. History buffs and sightseers alike can enjoy the 300 year-old legacy of these quaint settlements.
Tour One: Hope Town
After a 40-minute ferry ride from Marsh Harbour on Great Abaco, the best place to start your exploration of this tiny settlement dating back to 1785 is Bay Street. Unofficially known as "Down Along", the avenue runs parallel to Hope Town Harbour. Lining the street are clapboard cottages over 200 years old that are reminiscent of a Massachusetts hamlet.
After strolling east five blocks down Bay Street, make a left on Cary Lane and proceed 200 meters across Back Street to Cemetery Lane and the Cholera Cemetery. The crumbling headstones of victims of the 1850 epidemic as well as many of the original Loyalist settlers are entombed here.
From there, head back on Cemetery Lane to the west and make a right on Back Street to find the Dolphin and Whale Museum. The unattended exhibits chronicle the numerous species that have been documented in the Elbow Cay vicinity.
Head east on Back Street for about 1200 meters to the Wyannie Malone Historical Museum. Displays here examine Hope Town’s past with relics from the days of the thriving shipbuilding business. Also on hand are a variety of tools the "wreckers" of the 18th and 19th centuries would use to send false signals to passing vessels, hoping to crash them into the reefs and collect the riches within. Hope Town Beach, about 200 meters behind the museum, is ideal for relaxing in the sun or snorkeling.
Then, retrace your path on Back Street and make a left on Bay Street to head for the public docks. Here you can hail a water taxi to ferry you to Elbow Cay’s most popular attraction — the lighthouse. The 118-foot beacon, built in 1838, was not operational until 1863 as many island residents attempted to impede its construction and thus protect their profitable shipwrecking business. At the top of the lighthouse, you can observe the hand-turned kerosene lantern as well as panoramic views of the turquoise waters and tropical landscape below.
Tour Two: Dunmore Town
Settled by British Loyalists that fled during the American Revolutionary War, Dunmore Town on Harbour Island is one of the most well-preserved villages in the Bahamas. Start at the Government Docks (where the ferry will drop you off when coming from Eleuthera) at the intersection of Church and Bay Streets. Here you can check out the Higgs Sugar Mill that remained in use into the late 1800s. The Higgs Sugar Mill is also home to the local tourism board, so you can pick up maps and other useful information there.
Then head three blocks north on Bay Street to Princess Street that leads into a charming residential area highlighted by the Loyalist Cottage. Built in 1797, the home is considered to be one of the oldest and is an example of late 18th Century architecture. The building is not open to the public, but is certainly worth a look-see even if only from the outside.
Continuing north along Bay Street up to Grant Street, you will hit Girl’s Beach on your left. This picturesque stretch of sand is littered with curious driftwood and seashells. Be sure to pick up a free souvenir.
Then get back to Grant Street and go east one block to Dunmore Street where you’ll find Angela's Starfish Restaurant. The simple eatery has gained a well-deserved reputation for authentic Bahamian cuisine—try the curried chicken or the conch fritters.
After appeasing your appetite with an island delight, go south on Dunmore Street about 1000 meters to Chapel Street and the Wesley Methodist Church. Built in 1837, this pale-yellow house of worship is accented by a distinctive maritime flare to pay homage to its island parishioners. Three more blocks south at Goal Lane is St. John’s Anglican Church. Dating back to 1768, this structure is purportedly the oldest of its kind in the Bahamas.
Make a left on Goal Lane and head east until you run out of land and find Pink Sands Beach. This is the prototypical tropical coastline. The powdery sands extend across the entire eastern coast of Harbour Island. Sunbathe, snorkel, or just enjoy a fruity cocktail as the sun changes into vibrant colors and retreats for the day.
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