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39°F / 4°C
(Light Rain. Low Clouds. Chilly.)
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The City
There are many landmarks in Cork and one of the most notable is a good place to start our tour; St Ann's Church in Shandon. This church is famous for its bells and the salmon-shaped weather vane. Climb the tower, and you can ring the bells yourself. The view from the top is well worth the 120-foot ascent. Across the lane inside the Cork Butter Museum, is the Shandon Craft Centre. This is the home of thirteen craftspeople working under one roof. Browse through the Centre admiring the Blarney Irish Crystal, hand painted tableware, ceramics, jewelery, and textiles. The Cork Butter Exchange was opened between 1770 and 1924. In the nineteenth century it was exporting 500,000 casks of butter, and making 1.5 million pounds annually.
Now begins the main walking part of the tour. Walk down Church Street, on to Shandon Street, and turn left down the hill. Take the right immediately before the bridge to the North Mall. Sunday's Well Road veers right; there is a marvelous view of the city from the top of the hill. Continue along this road until it begins to descend. There will be a footpath to the left, this will bring you across Daly Bridge, or "The Shaky Bridge" as it is known locally due to the fact that it is suspended and therefore slightly flexible!
Here the River Lee looks its best, as the established gardens flanking the river add a lot of greenery. Fitzgerald's Park, which is across the bridge on the left, also adds a touch of greenery. A stroll through this beautiful park will bring you to Cork Public Museum which is sited in the old house on the park grounds. Set out down the Mardyke Walk toward town. Take a right so that you pass in front of the university's front gates. Two minutes walk will bring you to Cafe Paradiso on Lancaster Quay where you can take a break and enjoy some fine vegetarian food.
When you're ready, cross the road from the cafe, and take the road to Sharman and Crawford Street, turn right, and continue around the corner. The cathedral in front of you is St Finn Barres. On this site, St. Finbar founded his monastic school in 650CE, and the cathedral itself was built in 1870.
Turn left out of the main gate, and left on to Dean Street, which brings you onto Barrack Street. On your left you will see The Gateway Bar, the oldest pub in Cork, and some of the remains of the old city walls in Elizabeth's Fort. Continue down Barrack Street, turn right, then left over the footbridge. On your left is the South Mall. Note that the steps leading up to various offices have arches underneath them. These date back to the time when the South Mall was a part of the river, the arches were for tying up boats, and the steps lead up to the houses where the merchants once lived.
Take Prince's Street through to Patrick's Street. Next choose one of the pedestrianized streets and head for Paul Street. Turn right and walk towards the large red bricked building, it is the Crawford Art Gallery. Next take a stroll down to the Cork Vision Centre on North Main Street; here is a 1:1500 scale model of the city so you can look back at the route you've taken during the day.
The Triskel Arts Centre is hidden away on a lane between South Main Street and Grand Parade. It houses the excellent Yumi Yuki Club where there are special film deals. You get some sushi and sake and into a movie, the perfect end to the perfect day!
A Trip to Cobh
This tour starts at the Cork City Gaol situated on Convent Avenue, off Sunday's Well Road. It was still functional in the nineteenth century as a prison. Today furnished cells, models, and sound effects all combine to create an exciting exhibition exploring daily life as experienced by both prisoners and gaolers. Take the quickest route to University College Cork, down the hill from the gaol and across the Daly Bridge, and down the Ferry Walk. Keep straight and cross Western Road. Follow Western Road on the left until you come to the gates of the college. The university was established in 1845 as one of the three Queen's Colleges in Ireland (the others were at Belfast and Galway). Start with the Quadrangle Buildings built in 1849, and the Stone Corridor, which houses a good collection of Ogham Stones. The Honan Chapel possesses stained glass by Harry Clarke and a mosaic floor featuring the twelve signs of the zodiac; an unusual feature for a Catholic church.
Walk back down Western Road towards the city center. On the Grand Parade you'll find two entrances to the English Market. This old market sells all types of foods and provides an insight into the culinary culture of the city. Once you have finished feasting your eyes, follow Patrick's Street to MacCurtain Street and keep going until you reach Kent Railway Station.
The train to Cobh leaves at 25 minutes past the hour (except on Sundays), and takes about 25 minutes. Cobh is a beautiful harbour town; it's situated on The Great Island, one of three islands in Cork Harbour. The tiny windy streets (built for a horse and carriage only) are reminiscent of the back streets of Cork. The Queenstown Exhibition is in the railway station and will tell you all you need to know about the town and its history.
There is a lot to do in Cobh for the afternoon. The Blarney Woollen Mills in the station is a great place for picking up gifts for loved ones. The Sirius Arts Centre is located nearby and if you are interested in modern art you are sure to find much of interest. The Maritime Museum is another popular place to visit. St Colman's Cathedral dominates the whole town. This cathedral took 47 years to build and was constructed between 1868 and 1915. It has a carillon of 49 bells, the largest one weighing 3400kg. If you're feeling a bit tired from all this activity, why not enjoy a relaxing harbor cruise?
The return trains leave at five minutes to the hour. It is worth noting that this train also passes through Fota Wildlife Park, another of the islands. A visit here takes up a whole day, but is well worth it.
If you're wondering where to dine, try The Ivory Tower on Prince's Street. This is considered by many to be the best restaurant in Cork. The chef, Seamus O'Connell, is a culinary alchemist. If the idea of guinea fowl braised in Beamish Stout or a Bloody Mary Oyster appeals, this could be just the place for you!
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